7 Days in Alxa

Yinchuan sits about two hours east over the Helan Mountains; walk the Qing-era garrison walls and the prince's mansion, then let the league museum set up the desert days ahead.

1. alxa dingyuan camp
2. alxa league museum

A 4WD transfer crosses the dune belt to the lake; walk the shoreline, climb a crest for the view and stay for the evening colors before the ride back.

1. alxa tengger moon lake

The league's largest lama temple fills a forested Helan valley — plank paths, pavilions and prayer flags, pleasantly cool even at midday.

1. alxa guangzong temple

The quieter northern valley layers juniper slopes and monastery courtyards; back in Bayan Hot, finish with a slow camel-meat hotpot dinner.

1. alxa fuyin temple

A couple of hours south, the grassland-and-dune borderland pairs horse tracks with sand slopes — an easy day of open space before the long transfer.

1. alxa tonghu grassland

The run to Alxa Right Banner takes most of a day; stop at Mandela Mountain, where thousands of petroglyphs cover the dark rock faces, then overnight in banner town.

1. alxa mandela rock art

Charter a local 4WD for the day into the lake-and-dune country around Bilutu, counted among the world's tallest stationary dunes, then carry on toward Yinchuan or Jiuquan.

1. alxa badain jaran desert