14 Days in Hengshui

The lake, a national nature reserve since 2003, holds more than 300 recorded bird species; the rebuilt Han-style Lüli town on its east shore makes the evening.

1. hengshui lake
2. hengshui luli ancient town

A slow day where reeds meet water — the species count passed 300, September brings the migration turn, and the lakeside marathon has run here every autumn since 2012.

1. hengshui lake

The museum opened in 1985 as China's first devoted to woodblock New Year pictures; Wuqiang's craft joined the first national intangible-heritage batch in 2006.

1. hengshui wuqiang nianhua museum

A whole day in the instrument-makers' town — workshops of one of the world's largest wind-instrument makers open their doors along the lanes, and the afternoon belongs to a flute lesson or none.

1. hengshui zhouwo music town

The 18th-century Anji Bridge crosses the Fuyang River, and the Song-dynasty Baoyun Pagoda (national list, 2006) stands at the old city's edge; the baijiu house's own telling credits a 1915 Panama gold medal.

1. hengshui anji bridge
2. hengshui baoyun pagoda
3. hengshui laobaigan culture hall

About an hour south, the Jingzhou Pagoda rises around 63 metres on Northern Wei ground; the Northern-Dynasties Feng family cemetery nearby has been protected since 1961.

1. hengshui jingzhou pagoda
2. hengshui feng family tombs

About 30 km north, Shenzhou's honey peaches carry a county-wide orchard culture — blossom runs late March into April, and the fruit hangs in late summer; either season reads honestly.

1. hengshui shenzhou peach orchards

The district south of the lake carries the name that heads China's ancient Nine Provinces lists; Han-era wall lines and the lakeside lanes make a quiet day of the south shore.

1. hengshui jizhou ancient city

The lakeside circuit, race course of the autumn marathon since 2012, walks or rides in sections; the east shore's reed platforms give the afternoon its birds.

1. hengshui lake

An honest neighbor day — the provincial capital is under an hour north by HSR from Hengshui North (the line opened in December 2017); the museum's bronzes and jade suits fill the day, evening train back.

1. shijiazhuang hebei museum

A market morning and a look at the exam-famous high-school quarter the city is also known for; the baijiu culture hall's afternoon tasting closes it out.

1. hengshui city markets

The second plainly marked neighbor day, about 80 km southeast into Shandong — the tomb of the Sulu kingdom's east king, who died here in 1417 returning from tribute, keeps a quiet walled garden; braised chicken makes lunch.

1. dezhou sulu king tomb

A final lakeside day, timed for the west-shore sunset; a market supper and early packing follow.

1. hengshui lake
2. hengshui city markets

A market breakfast, then the HSR from Hengshui North — Shijiazhuang under an hour, Beijing about two — close the trip.

1. hengshui city markets