14 Days in Jiangmen

The old Changdi arcades line the river for blocks; a first evening of arcade snacks sets the town's rhythm for two slow weeks.

1. jiangmen changdi street

The museum explains why more than four million overseas Chinese trace roots to the five counties — remittance letters, steamship tickets, return-built houses; the whole trip makes sense after this morning.

1. jiangmen wuyi overseas museum

Kaiping keeps 1,833 fortified towers; the Zili cluster led by the 1925 Mingshi Tower pairs with the Li garden the Xie family finished in the 1930s. Overnight in Kaiping town.

1. jiangmen zili village
2. jiangmen liyuan garden

Bamboo-clad towers in the southern hills, then the nine-story Ruishi Tower of 1923 over the rice at Jinjiangli; stay for the fields' late light before driving back.

1. jiangmen majianglong village
2. jiangmen ruishi tower

The Tan River arcades, a film-set town since the 2010 blockbuster; a slow morning, riverside photographs, and an unhurried noodle lunch before the road home.

1. jiangmen chikan old town

North in Heshan, fishpond lanes and ferry paths; the village claims the Wing Chun master Leung Jan. Back in the city by evening.

1. jiangmen gulao water town

A single banyan shades some 20 mu of river, famous since Ba Jin's 1933 essay; morning boats and evening return flights of the birds bookend the day.

1. jiangmen bird paradise

The 1873 birthplace of Liang Qichao at Chakeng village, then the chenpi markets — tangerine peel aged by the year, tasting benches everywhere; buy a small tin if the nose agrees.

1. jiangmen liangqichao residence
2. jiangmen chenpi village

The forested hill above Xinhui makes an easy morning climb; below at Yamen, the Qing-era fort overlooks the estuary where the 1279 naval battle closed the Song dynasty — a plain historical-site visit.

1. jiangmen guifeng mountain
2. jiangmen yamen fort

A slow arcade quarter day — second breakfasts, riverside benches, coffee in the old bank buildings; the Taishan legs ahead are long ones.

1. jiangmen changdi street

The enclosed courtyard blocks of Meijiadayuan date from the early 1930s; Fuyue village scatters its own towers among the rice. Taishan is called the first hometown of the overseas Chinese for how many left.

1. jiangmen meijiadayuan
2. jiangmen fuyue village

A ferry of about half an hour reaches the island off Taishan; the long beach town runs slow, seafood dinners included. Overnight on the island.

1. jiangmen shangchuan island

An honestly labeled side day — Yangjiang lies along the coast to the west, about two hours from the ferry ports; its bay beach at Zhapo makes the loop before the return east.

1. yangjiang

One last arcade morning in the city — tea, pastries, a last look at the river — then the fast trains from Jiangmen station toward Guangzhou or beyond.

1. jiangmen changdi street