5 Days in Jinzhong

The old town's grid dates to 582 — city god temple, county yamen and opera stage — and the Chang manor southwest of town shows the merchant family's restored courtyards and study gardens across more than ten hectares.

1. jinzhong yuci old town
2. jinzhong chang family manor

Two compounds in one county — the Qiao's six courts and 313 rooms from 1756 onward, then the Qu mansion's five-pass deep courtyards in Qi county's old town, home to the family's tea-trade offices.

1. jinzhong qiao family compound
2. jinzhong qu family compound

UNESCO-listed since 1997 — walls raised in 1370 with six gates and 72 watchtowers, the Rishengchang draft bank of 1823, and the county yamen's Ming-era courts.

1. jinzhong pingyao city
2. jinzhong rishengchang

Southwest of town, Shuanglin keeps over 2,000 painted clay figures in its halls; Zhenguo's main hall to the northeast dates to 963, among the oldest timber structures standing in China.

1. jinzhong shuanglin temple
2. jinzhong zhenguo temple

The Wang compound's 123 courtyards and 1,118 rooms first, then Zhangbi's walled village above kilometres of ancient tunnels before the evening train south or north.

1. jinzhong wang family compound
2. jinzhong zhangbi fortress