5 Days in Qingyang

Twenty-five kilometres southwest of Xifeng, work began in 509; 295 niches and about 2,100 figures, with Cave 165's seven seated Buddhas as the centrepiece.

1. qingyang north grottoes

Fifty kilometres north, tradition places the Zhou forebear Buzhu in this valley about 4,000 years ago; after the terraced hillside park, the rebuilt Yaowangdong streets serve riverside noodles.

1. qingyang zhou mausoleum
2. qingyang yaowangdong town

Morning in the workshops whose craft entered the national intangible-heritage list in 2006; afternoon on the gully paths of Xiaokongtong on the city's edge.

1. qingyang sachet workshops
2. qingyang xiaokongtong

About two hours northeast in Huachi County, the memorial records the Shaan-Gan soviet government established here in November 1934; the halls set out the years factually, and the memorial tower stands on the hillside. Factual visit, about four hours there and back.

1. qingyang nanliang memorial

The county theatre keeps alive shadow plays on the national intangible list since 2006, performed with Daoqing singing behind lit screens; the drive north takes about two hours, so book a late train or stay the night.

1. qingyang huanxian shadow puppetry