5 Days in Shantou

Shantou opened as a treaty port in 1860, and the qilou arcades of the 1920s still radiate from the little pavilion circle; the Qing-era Laomagong temple doorway sells zongqiu — sticky-rice dumplings split into sweet and savory halves.

1. shantou xiaogongyuan district
2. shantou laomagong snacks

The 11 km bridge (opened 2015) reaches Guangdong's only island county, the main island about 110 square kilometers; the Ming-era commander's headquarters (founded 1576) and its courtyard keep the strait's administration on record.

1. shantou nanao bridge
2. shantou nanao island

Begun in 1910, the overseas-Chinese mansion at Chenghai counts 506 rooms mixing Chaoshan courtyards with Western arcades; nearby Zhanglin launched red-head emigrant boats through the 18th century, and its anchor stone still sits by the old canal.

1. shantou chen cihong residence
2. shantou zhanglin ancient port

An honest neighbor day, about an hour northwest — the Guangji bridge, begun in 1171, still closes nightly with its floating midsection of 18 boats; the archway street carries 23 restored Ming-Qing stone gates. Back to Shantou for the night.

1. shantou chaozhou guangji bridge

The granite fort, built 1874-1879, hides behind a ring moat; then the 1928 Zhongshan Park's nine-bend bridge loops the lotus pond. Jieyang Chaoshan airport is about 30 minutes out, or the bus to Chaoshan HSR station.

1. shantou qilu fort
2. shantou zhongshan park