14 Days in Shuangyashan

The museum frames a town that began with coal seams found in 1914 and took city status in 1956; the pit-head districts around Lingdong show the same story in brick and rail.

1. shuangyashan city museum
2. shuangyashan coal city sites

About 15 km out in the Lingdong hills, a full slow day on the national forest park's ridges and lookouts, at their best June-August; evening back downtown.

1. shuangyashan qingshan forest park

Some 30 km north in Jixian county, boardwalks cross the reed beds of the national wetland park, liveliest in the April-May and September-October bird passages.

1. shuangyashan anbanghe wetland

A rest day at small-city speed — Bei Xiu park, the library quarter, and long northeastern breakfasts; the coal districts wait for better light.

1. shuangyashan beixiu park
2. shuangyashan city markets

An honest long day east to Baoqing county, roughly two hours each way, for the national nature reserve of about 20,000 hectares of marsh — cranes and swans pass through in season; overnight in Baoqing town.

1. shuangyashan qixinghe reserve

A Baoqing-town morning market, then the road back west; an afternoon lap of the pit-head districts in the low light that suits their brick and rail.

1. shuangyashan coal city sites

In Youyi county, the rammed-earth walls of Fenglin mark a settlement some 2,000 years old, protected since 2001; the machinery park recalls Youyi Farm, set up in 1955 as one of China's first large mechanised state farms.

1. shuangyashan fenglin ancient city
2. shuangyashan beidahuang farm museum

The honest four-hour drive east to Raohe county on the Russian border — evening on the Ussuri riverfront, the river the old song "Wusuli Boat Song" made famous; overnight in Raohe town.

1. shuangyashan raohe ussuri riverfront

The wooded dome of Dadingzi Mountain looks over the Ussuri flats; a river morning below, then a second night in Raohe.

1. shuangyashan dadingzi mountain

The Hezhen, one of China's smallest ethnic groups at just over 5,000 people in the 2010 census, keep fish-skin craft and river traditions in Sipai township; the long road back to Shuangyashan in the afternoon.

1. shuangyashan sipai hezhe township

Half an hour west by HSR (line opened December 2021) to the neighbouring city with its own pages — the Songhua riverside park and the city museum; evening return.

1. jiamusi riverside park
2. jiamusi city museum

South by HSR to Qitaihe, the town whose short-track programme produced champions like Wang Meng, winner of four Olympic golds, and Fan Kexin of the 2022 relay team; Taoshan Lake park rounds out the day.

1. qitaihe short track museum
2. qitaihe taoshan lake

A last gentle morning on the Lingdong hills — snow dusting the ridges if winter has come early — and a farewell market supper downtown.

1. shuangyashan qingshan forest park
2. shuangyashan city markets

One more northeastern breakfast, then the HSR from Shuangyashan West.

1. shuangyashan city markets