5 Days in Shuozhou

In the old city, the temple founded in 665 keeps its 1143 Amitabha Hall, one of the largest Jin-dynasty halls standing; then the Mayi district, whose name marks the frontier town where the Han court's failed 133 BC ambush plot against the Xiongnu unfolded.

1. shuozhou chongfu temple
2. shuozhou mayi ancient city

About 75 km east, the pagoda of 1056 stands 67.31 metres on 54 kinds of bracket joints, a survivor of earthquakes and the 1926 shelling; Jingtu Temple's 1124 coffered ceilings round out the county town.

1. shuozhou yingxian wooden pagoda
2. shuozhou jingtu temple

South about 40 km into Shanyin county, the Ming wall of the 16th century runs over the hills above the old and new Guangwu garrison towns; the famous arch known as the Moon Gate partly collapsed in 2016 and was later consolidated. Back to Shuozhou for the night.

1. shuozhou guangwu great wall

West to Youyu county, about 80 km, where the Ming-era Shahukou — renamed Shahukou's softer form under the Qing — funnelled the "west exit" migration of Shanxi merchants; in town, Nanshan forest park's terraces tell the tree-planting story that lifted forest cover from about 0.3 percent in 1949 toward 57 percent.

1. shuozhou shahukou pass
2. shuozhou nanshan forest park

Oat-noodle breakfast in the market streets, a last look at the old quarter, then the train from the county HSR stops opened in December 2019.

1. shuozhou city markets