7 Days in Shuozhou

The temple founded in 665 keeps its 1143 Amitabha Hall, among the largest Jin halls standing; then the Mayi district, named for the frontier town of the failed 133 BC Han ambush plot against the Xiongnu.

1. shuozhou chongfu temple
2. shuozhou mayi ancient city

About 75 km east, the pagoda of 1056 stands 67.31 metres on 54 kinds of bracket joints, a survivor of earthquakes and the 1926 shelling; Jingtu Temple's 1124 coffered ceilings round out the county town.

1. shuozhou yingxian wooden pagoda
2. shuozhou jingtu temple

South about 40 km into Shanyin county, the Ming wall of the 16th century runs over the hills above the old and new Guangwu garrison towns; the Moon Gate arch, partly collapsed in 2016, was later consolidated.

1. shuozhou guangwu great wall

West to Youyu, about 80 km, where the Ming-era Shahukou pass funnelled the "west exit" migration of Shanxi merchants; Nanshan forest park tells the planting story that lifted forest cover from about 0.3 percent in 1949 toward 57 percent.

1. shuozhou shahukou pass
2. shuozhou nanshan forest park

An honest side day north — around 90 minutes by road to Datong for the cave complex begun in 460, some 45 major grottoes UNESCO-listed in 2001; back to Shuozhou by evening.

1. datong yungang grottoes

Another open side day, south-east to Xinzhou's rebuilt old city and its Xiurong Academy; the wall walk pairs well with an early dinner before the ride home.

1. xinzhou ancient city
2. xinzhou xiurong academy

Oat-noodle breakfast, a last lap of the old quarter, then the train from the county HSR stops opened in December 2019.

1. shuozhou city markets