14 Days in Tianshui

The whole first day on the 142-metre hill — 221 caves, 10,000-plus clay sculptures from around 384-417 onward, spiralling walkways, the 15-metre eastern Buddha. Timed entry booked ahead; UNESCO Silk Roads 2014.

1. tianshui maijishan grottoes

Fifteen kilometres toward town, temples perch on ledge and natural bridge; the Jingtu grounds fill the green afternoon between them.

1. tianshui xianren ya
2. tianshui jingtu temple

The forest park behind the Maiji hills — twin peaks framing a stone gate, streamside steps, summer shade. Pack the picnic.

1. tianshui shimen mountain

The Fuxi Temple of 1483-1484 and the museum galleries, then the late-1500s Hu compounds and their folk-museum south house.

1. Fuxing Temple (Fuxi Temple)
2. tianshui hushi residences

North-slope Taoist guan, Nanguo temple with Du Fu's 759 poems and the about-2,500-year cypress, and the West Gate lanes at dusk.

1. tianshui yuquan guan
2. tianshui nanguo temple
3. tianshui xiguan old town

Labelled county day — rail west about 40 minutes to the Shuiliandou gorge, home of the Lashao relief carved in 559, its main cliff figure around 40 metres.

1. tianshui shuiliandong

Also labelled — half an hour to Gangu and the Daxiang slope, the 23-metre Tang cliff Buddha above temple terraces.

1. tianshui daxiang mountain

Labelled north run — Qin'an county keeps the near-8,000-year village floors of Dadiwan and its site museum; return by the evening train.

1. tianshui dadiwan site

A deliberate rest between runs — late breakfast of guagua, a second pass through the old-town lanes and the Hu house courtyards, and tickets bought for the southern leg.

1. tianshui xiguan old town
2. tianshui hushi residences

Labelled cross-city leg — trains and road run south into Longnan prefecture toward Dangchang county, where the Guan'e gorge stacks lakes and waterfalls below forested walls. Overnight at the gorge mouth.

1. longnan guanegou

Still labelled — a full walking day inside the gorge's upper reaches, boardwalks between pools and falls, then the afternoon bus-and-rail return toward Tianshui.

1. longnan guanegou

Labelled cross-city day north — Kongtong sits under Pingliang, about three hours by road; forested ridges, cliff temples, main height near 2,123 metres. Late return or a Pingliang night.

1. pingliang kongtong mountain

A second timed entry for the caves you missed the first time — the museum hall at the foot of the hill deepens what the walkways show. Late-afternoon light from the viewing platform is the photographer's slot.

1. tianshui maijishan grottoes

Last-morning purchases in the old town — mature vinegar, Huaniu apples in season, paper-cuts — a final guagua bowl, then the HSR platform for Lanzhou or Xi'an, each about 1.5 hours.

1. tianshui xiguan old town