14 Days in Tonghua

The hillside cemetery holds the remains of General Yang Jingyu (1905-1940), reinterred here in 1958, and its halls document the Northeast Anti-Japanese United Army years. Climb Yuhuangshan Park afterwards for a view over the Hun River.

1. tonghua yangjingyu martyrs cemetery
2. tonghua yuhuangshan park

Drive the 120 km southeast to Ji'an (about two hours) and overnight there. The stele of 414 AD stands 6.39 m with around 1,775 inscribed characters; General's Tomb rises about 13 m on seven granite tiers, both part of the 2004 World Heritage listing.

1. tonghua gwanggaeto stele
2. tonghua generals tomb

The two capital sites pair a walled hill fortress with the stone-walled palace city inside modern Ji'an; the Yalu riverbank walk adds the North Korean bank in view. Head back to Tonghua by evening.

1. tonghua wandu mountain city
2. tonghua guonei city

A slow day after the first run of excursions - riverside loops, tea houses and an early night before the next block starts.

1. tonghua hun river riverside

About two hours northwest in Huinan County, the park chains together maar lakes left by old volcanoes. Boardwalks circle Dalongwan and Sanjiaolongwan, and Diaoshuihu waterfall runs fullest after summer rains.

1. tonghua longwan forest park

Honestly labeled as a neighboring-province day - Wunü Mountain stands in Huanren County, Liaoning, about two hours southwest. Its summit plateau near 820 m carried Goguryeo's first capital from 37 BC, and the site is part of the same 2004 World Heritage listing.

1. tonghua wunv mountain

The wine company dates to 1937 and its underground cellar tunnels still age barrels of mountain-grape wine; the tasting room closes out the morning, the afternoon stays free.

1. tonghua wine cellar

An honest neighbor-city day - Baishan lies under two hours south on the upper Hun River, and its own page carries the full local lineup. A riverside walk and the fish-market lunch fill a light day.

1. baishan

Clearly flagged as a long day - the west-slope gates of Changbai Mountain sit about three hours from Tonghua via Baishan. The waterfall and valley views reward the early start; check the daily ticket quota before you go.

1. changbaishan

Markets, a long lunch and a nap - the last excursion block starts tomorrow.

1. tonghua city markets

Another clearly marked neighbor day, about three hours southeast by road or rail; an overnight keeps it relaxed. The border city's riverside promenade looks straight across at Sinuiju.

1. dandong

A morning on the Yalu waterfront and the bridge views, seafood lunch by the river, then the ride back north to Tonghua by evening.

1. dandong

One last easy circuit of the riverside and the park hill, with snacks for the train picked up on the way and an early night.

1. tonghua hun river riverside
2. tonghua yuhuangshan park

A market breakfast - sweet rice dumplings and cold noodles are local standards - then a slow pack-up and the train from Tonghua station.

1. tonghua city markets