7 Days in Wenzhou

The river islet Governor Xie Lingyun versed in 422, its twin pagodas long used as navigation marks — the ferry crossing runs about five minutes — then the walking street and drum tower that keep the old city's commercial spine.

1. wenzhou jiangxin islet
2. wenzhou wuma street

Under an hour by rail north to Yueqing, in a geopark listed in 2005 — rhyolite cliffs left by a Cretaceous caldera about 128 million years ago, a column of water some 190 metres at Dalongqiu, and the silhouettes of Lingfeng that refold after dark.

1. wenzhou dalongqiu falls
2. wenzhou lingfeng peaks

An hour or so west into Yongjia county — bamboo rafts drift the shallows, and Cangpo village keeps its 1178 brush-and-inkstone ground plan in working order.

1. wenzhou nanxi rafting
2. wenzhou cangpo village

Morning galleries holding the Northern Song painted-clay figures recovered from the White Elephant Pagoda, then an evening along the canal lanes of Nantang with the food carts out.

1. wenzhou city museum
2. wenzhou nantang street

Southwest into Wencheng county, the home county of the 1311-born strategist Liu Bowen — the waterfall runs three tiers, the first said to drop 207 metres, loudest after summer rains.

1. wenzhou baizhangji falls

On to Taishun for the twin timber arches at Sixi, braided beams spanning without nails — the wooden arch craft entered UNESCO's urgent-safeguarding intangible lists in 2009.

1. wenzhou taishun bridges

One last ferry loop past the pagodas, luggage-free, then the rail or flight out of the old port.

1. wenzhou jiangxin islet