14 Days in Xinzhou

The walled city traces its grid back to 215 AD — restored lanes now hold the hillside Xiurong Academy, Shanxi snacks and city-wall evening views.

1. xinzhou ancient city
2. xinzhou xiurong academy

Over the mountains to Taihuai at 1,700 m — the white stupa of about 56 m, Eastern Han-era Xiantong Temple, and Pusading's 108 steps. Overnight in Taihuai town.

1. xinzhou wutai mountain

A second valley day at temple pace — Dailuoding's 1,080 steps and any terrace road the weather allows; from about November to April snow often closes the high terraces. Overnight in Taihuai again.

1. xinzhou wutai mountain

Down the eastern side for the Tang pair — Foguang's hall of 857, found by Liang Sicheng's team in 1937, and Nanchan's small hall of 782, the oldest timber building standing in China. On to Xinzhou by evening.

1. xinzhou foguang temple
2. xinzhou nanchan temple

An hour north to Daixian and 20 km more to the pass called first of the nine ancient strongholds — where general Yang Ye broke a Khitan army in 980. The Ming Bianjing Tower of 1374 and the white Ayuwang stupa fill the afternoon.

1. xinzhou yanmen pass
2. xinzhou bianjing tower
3. xinzhou ayuwang stupa

The Republican compound begun in 1913 at Hebian town in the morning, then an afternoon soak in the Duncun pools on the city's north side.

1. xinzhou yanxishan former residence
2. xinzhou duncun hot springs

Two hours west to Dongzhai town — past the alpine Malun grassland to the summit pile of the 'bud' peak at 2,739 m. Overnight in Dongzhai.

1. xinzhou luya mountain
2. xinzhou malun grassland

Ice held year-round in a cave at about 2,200 m, often dated to some three million years, then the stilted houses of Xuankong village against the rock face. Overnight in Dongzhai again.

1. xinzhou wannian ice cave
2. xinzhou xuankong village

The spring pool where the 713 km Fen River rises, then the alpine Tianchi lake group nearby — its shores hold remains of a Sui-era imperial lodge built around 608. Back to Xinzhou by evening.

1. xinzhou fenhe source
2. xinzhou ningwu tianchi lakes

Three and a half hours northwest to Pianguan county, where the Yellow River enters Shanxi and runs under the Ming wall; the fortress village dates to 1467. Overnight by the river.

1. xinzhou laoniu bay

A slow drive back southeast and an unstructured afternoon — a long hot soak at Duncun, an early night.

1. xinzhou duncun hot springs

An honest side day into neighboring Datong — about an hour by HSR to the cave complex begun in 460, some 45 major grottoes and tens of thousands of carved figures, UNESCO-listed in 2001; the city's nine-dragon screen is around 600 years old. Back to Xinzhou by evening.

1. datong yungang grottoes

Half an hour south by HSR to Taiyuan for Jinci — the Song-dynasty Lady Shrine of 1023-1032 with its painted clay attendants, the Everlasting Spring and an ancient Zhou cypress, the trio locals call the three wonders. Evening back in Xinzhou.

1. taiyuan jinci temple

A market breakfast and one more walk on the walls, then the HSR from Xinzhou West.

1. xinzhou ancient city
2. xinzhou city markets