7 Days in Xinzhou

The walled city traces its grid back to 215 AD — restored lanes now hold the hillside Xiurong Academy, Shanxi snacks and city-wall evening views.

1. xinzhou ancient city
2. xinzhou xiurong academy

Over the mountains to Taihuai at 1,700 m — the white stupa of about 56 m, Eastern Han-era Xiantong Temple, and Pusading's 108 steps. Overnight in Taihuai town.

1. xinzhou wutai mountain

Dailuoding's 1,080 steps for the small-terraces panorama, then descend toward Foguang Temple — its main hall of 857 was identified by Liang Sicheng's team in 1937. Back to Xinzhou by evening.

1. xinzhou dailuoding
2. xinzhou foguang temple

An hour north to Daixian and 20 km more to the pass called first of the nine ancient strongholds — where general Yang Ye broke a Khitan army in 980. The Ming Bianjing Tower of 1374 and the white Ayuwang stupa fill the afternoon.

1. xinzhou yanmen pass
2. xinzhou bianjing tower
3. xinzhou ayuwang stupa

Two hours west to Dongzhai town, gateway of the Luya massif — up past the alpine Malun grassland to the summit pile of the 'bud' peak at 2,739 m. Overnight in Dongzhai.

1. xinzhou luya mountain
2. xinzhou malun grassland

Three short hops around Dongzhai — ice held year-round in a cave at about 2,200 m, often dated to some three million years; the stilted houses of Xuankong village against the rock; and the spring pool where the 713 km Fen River, Shanxi's longest, rises. Back to Xinzhou in the late afternoon.

1. xinzhou wannian ice cave
2. xinzhou xuankong village
3. xinzhou fenhe source

20 km southeast at Hebian town in Dingxiang, the Republican-era compound begun in 1913 — courtyards, carved doorways and period rooms, now a museum. Afternoon HSR from Xinzhou West.

1. xinzhou yanxishan former residence