5 Days in Yantai

Start on the 42-metre harbour hill where consulates moved in after the 1861 treaty-port opening; the evening promenade south ends at the First Bathing Beach.

1. Yantai Hill lighthouse
2. Binhai Square

Suochengli grew around the Ming garrison set up in 1398; in the afternoon the Changyu museum — founded 1892, cellar dug 1894-1905 — finishes with a tasting and Chaoyang Street lights up next door.

1. Suochengli old garrison town
2. Changyu Wine Culture Museum

The rail line northwest takes about an hour; the cliff-top pavilion dates to 1061 and the eight-immortals legend, and Qi Jiguang — the Ming general born in 1528 — keeps his own street. Buy tomorrow's ferry ticket at Penglai port before dark.

1. Penglai Pavilion
2. Qi Jiguang hometown streets

The ferry crosses in about 40 minutes for around 45 yuan one way; sailings run year-round, thin out in winter and stop in strong winds, and the bird-island loop only runs April-October. Walk the near-70-metre Jiuzhang Cliff and the pebble crescent of Moon Bay before the evening boat back.

1. Changdao islands
2. Jiuzhang Cliff
3. Moon Bay pebble beach

Cross the bridge to the island where legend says the First Emperor pastured horses on his eastern tour of 219 BC; a fishing-village seafood lunch, a market stop in town, then the train.

1. Yangma Island
2. Yantai seafood market