10 Days in Yichang

The gorges begin at the city's edge; Sanyou Cave pairs cliff walks with wide Yangtze views before an evening on the riverside park.

1. Sanyou Cave
2. Binjiang Park

The world's largest dam is under an hour upstream; Qu Yuan's rebuilt hometown faces it across the reservoir — pair the two.

1. Three Gorges Dam
2. Qu Yuan Hometown

A boat-and-boardwalk route up Longjin Stream with stilt houses under the cliffs; go early to beat the tour groups.

1. Three Gorges Tribe scenic area

An hour west in Changyang, boat loops run down the green Qing River to the mountain where the Tujia people trace their origins.

1. Qingjiang Gallery cruise
2. Wuluo Zhongli Mountain

Waterwheels and craft workshops in the valley first; the living fossils swim at the research station afterwards.

1. Chexi folk valley
2. Chinese sturgeon research station

A longer boat-and-bus loop through Xiling's narrowest reaches; the riverside temple at Huangling is one of the oldest on the banks.

1. Xiling Gorge cruise
2. Huangling Temple

Wang Zhaojun was born in this valley village north of the gorges; the drive up the Xiangxi valley is half the trip.

1. Zhaojun Village

Stone pillars and rim boardwalks in Wufeng county two hours south; noticeably cooler than the city in summer.

1. Chaibuxi Grand Canyon

In rafting season take the Jiwan Stream rapids that feed the gorges; off season the Zigui bamboo walks are the quiet twin.

1. Jiwanxi rafting
2. Three Gorges Bamboo Sea

A last morning with the city's collection, then the train; the riverside park makes a slow goodbye.

1. Yichang Museum