14 Days in Yichang

Land softly with an evening walk along the Yangtze wall; the lock gates glow after dark.

1. Binjiang Park

Cliff walks with gorge views in the morning, then the living fossils of the research station.

1. Sanyou Cave
2. Chinese sturgeon research station

The world's largest dam is under an hour upstream; Qu Yuan's rebuilt hometown faces it across the reservoir.

1. Three Gorges Dam
2. Qu Yuan Hometown

A boat-and-boardwalk route up Longjin Stream with stilt houses under the cliffs; go early to beat the tour groups.

1. Three Gorges Tribe scenic area

A longer boat-and-bus loop through Xiling's narrowest reaches; Huangling's riverside temple is one of the oldest on the banks.

1. Xiling Gorge cruise
2. Huangling Temple

An hour west in Changyang, boat loops run down the green Qing River to the Tujia origin mountain.

1. Qingjiang Gallery cruise
2. Wuluo Zhongli Mountain

Waterwheels, paper workshops and hill paths; an easy day that still feels like the countryside.

1. Chexi folk valley

Wang Zhaojun was born in this valley village north of the gorges; the drive up the Xiangxi valley is half the trip.

1. Zhaojun Village

Stone pillars and rim boardwalks in Wufeng county two hours south; noticeably cooler than the city in summer.

1. Chaibuxi Grand Canyon

In rafting season take the Jiwan Stream rapids that feed the gorges; off season the Zigui bamboo walks are the quiet twin.

1. Jiwanxi rafting
2. Three Gorges Bamboo Sea

A city-day rhythm — the collection in the morning, teahouse in the afternoon, riverside after dark.

1. Yichang Museum

The Jade Spring Temple ranks among the lower Yangtze's oldest monasteries; the Guan Ling tomb nearby honours general Guan Yu.

1. Yuquan Temple
2. Guan Ling

Climb the wooded hill across the river for a last panorama of city and gorge mouth; pack in the evening.

1. Mojishan hill

A final market circuit for tea and oranges — the region's citrus travels well — then the train.

1. morning riverside market