7 Days in Yichang

The gorges begin at the city's edge; Sanyou Cave pairs cliff walks with wide Yangtze views before an evening on the riverside park.

1. Sanyou Cave
2. Binjiang Park

The world's largest dam is under an hour upstream; Qu Yuan's rebuilt hometown faces it across the reservoir — pair the two.

1. Three Gorges Dam
2. Qu Yuan Hometown

A boat-and-boardwalk route up Longjin Stream with stilt houses under the cliffs; go early to beat the tour groups.

1. Three Gorges Tribe scenic area

An hour west in Changyang, boat loops run down the green Qing River to the mountain where the Tujia people trace their origins.

1. Qingjiang Gallery cruise
2. Wuluo Zhongli Mountain

A longer boat-and-bus loop through Xiling's narrowest reaches; the riverside temple at Huangling is one of the oldest on the banks.

1. Xiling Gorge cruise
2. Huangling Temple

Living fossils swim at the research station; Chexi's waterwheels and craft workshops make an easy afternoon.

1. Chinese sturgeon research station
2. Chexi folk valley

Wang Zhaojun, one of ancient China's famed beauties, was born in this valley village north of the gorges; return for an evening train.

1. Zhaojun Village