7 Days in Zhanjiang

The maar lake formed about 150,000 years ago — 2.3 square kilometres of water inside the Leiqiong UNESCO Global Geopark (2006). Afternoon in Xiashan for the seafront and the 1903 Gothic church.

1. zhanjiang huguangyan maar lake
2. zhanjiang victor catholic church

The Guangzhouwan lease ran 1899-1945; Chikan's arcades around the old chamber of commerce keep that ledger. Cunjin Bridge park marks the 1898 resistance, and the deepwater port opened in 1956.

1. zhanjiang chikan old street
2. zhanjiang cunjin bridge park

Guangdong's largest island at 286 square kilometres, with Longhaitian's 28-kilometre beach of firm sand. Sleep on the island to catch a quiet morning sea.

1. zhanjiang donghai island
2. zhanjiang longhaitian beach

Ferry out to the volcanic island for the French-built lighthouse of 1899 — 23 metres, crystal lens still turning — and the columned lava shore at Nayanhai. Back to the city.

1. zhanjiang naozhou island
2. zhanjiang naozhou lighthouse

The West Lake shrine honours ten Song statesmen exiled to this frontier; the Leizu Temple (642) venerates the peninsula's first governor; the Sanyuan pagoda was begun in 1613. Sleep in Leizhou.

1. zhanjiang leizhou west lake
2. zhanjiang leizu temple
3. zhanjiang sanyuan pagoda

Further south, Xuwen's roughly 350,000 mu of pineapple fields roll like a second sea — about a third of China's pineapples grow here. Field roads, farm stalls and fresh-cut fruit. Sleep in Xuwen county town.

1. zhanjiang pineapple sea

Cape Dengloujiao at Xuwen's tail is the southernmost point of the mainland, facing Hainan across a strait barely 19.4 kilometres wide at its narrowest. An honest next-province day — the ferry from Xuwen port takes about an hour to Haikou, for a farewell evening on its arcade streets.

1. zhanjiang dengloujiao cape
2. zhanjiang haikou day trip