14 Days in Zhengzhou

The Henan Museum (1927), 170,000 pieces deep — the 8,700-year Jiahu flute, the lotus-and-crane hu of 1923, Wu Zetian's gold slip — then the 63-metre twin Erqi tower of 1971 and Dehua street.

1. zhengzhou henan museum
2. zhengzhou erqi memorial tower

Morning on the 3,600-year rammed-earth walls and in the Shang capital museum; dusk by the 280-metre tower at Ruyi Lake in Zhengdong.

1. zhengzhou shang city ruins
2. zhengzhou shang city museum
3. zhengzhou zhengdong new district

The 80-kilometre run west: the monastery of 495, more than 240 stupas in the Pagoda Forest, hourly kung fu shows. The 2010 UNESCO inscription covers this whole valley. Sleep in Dengfeng.

1. zhengzhou shaolin temple
2. zhengzhou pagoda forest

A full cliff day under the Shaoshi peaks — plank walkways, suspension bridge and the suspension-bridge views back at the Song peaks. Second night in Dengfeng.

1. zhengzhou sanhuangzhai

The academy of 484 with its cypresses said to be 4,500 years old and the 744 Tang stele; a slow afternoon of Dengfeng's mutton-soup shops. Third night in town.

1. zhengzhou songyang academy

The temple quarter serving Mount Song's central peak, then south into neighbouring Yuzhou for Shenhou town's Jun kilns — the glazes that turn kiln-fire purple and red, still thrown and fired by hand. Back to Dengfeng for a last valley night.

1. zhengzhou zhongyue temple
2. zhengzhou jun porcelain kilns

Morning at the Gaocheng observatory, raised from 1276 for the Yuan calendar surveys and part of the 2010 listing, then the train back to Zhengzhou.

1. zhengzhou gaocheng observatory

The 2021 drama compound east of the city — 21 theatres running late morning to night. Book three or four shows and rest in the wheat-field courtyards between.

1. zhengzhou only henan drama city

Riverside day north of town — the 106-metre Emperors Yan and Huang carving of 2007, the cableway, and the geopark exhibits on the loess plateau. City night.

1. zhengzhou yellow river scenic area

An hour west: the Kang manor of twelve generations and some 400 years, then the Northern Wei cave temple of around 500 with 18 reliefs of imperial processions. Sleep in Gongyi.

1. zhengzhou kangbaiwan manor
2. zhengzhou gongyi grotto temple

The poet's birthplace in Zhanjie — Du Fu was born here in 712 — then the Song imperial burial grounds west of town, seven emperors and eight mausoleums of carved statuary. Return to Zhengzhou.

1. zhengzhou du fu hometown
2. zhengzhou song tombs

Southwest to Xinmi's Fuxishan — red-sandstone gorges, hanging walkways and cool forest air, an easy escape that stays inside the city's own borders. Back for a late dinner.

1. zhengzhou fuxishan valley

An honest neighbouring-city day — some twenty minutes by rail east to the old Song capital for the Iron Pagoda, Dragon Pavilion or the Qingming riverside park; the site's Kaifeng guide carries the deep detail.

1. zhengzhou kaifeng day trip

A final honest rail run — about forty minutes west to Luoyang for the Longmen cliffs in the morning, back past noon for the evening flight or train; Luoyang has its own guide for a proper return.

1. zhengzhou luoyang day trip