5 Days in Dali

Walk the 1382 walls from the south gate, then the 69.13-m Qianxun Pagoda of the 9th-century complex and its reflection pond; entry runs CNY 75.

1. Dali Ancient Town
2. Three Pagodas of Dali and Reverse Reflection Park

About 18 km north, Xizhou's Ming-Qing courtyards include the Yan Family Compound (CNY 35); the Haishe spit pokes into the 1972-m-high Erhai a short ride on.

1. Xizhou Bai Ethnic Ancient Town
2. dali haishe peninsula

The range stacks 19 peaks and 18 streams; the gondola climbs to about 3900 m under 4122-m Malong Peak. Ride north first to Zhoucheng's indigo workshops.

1. dali cangshan
2. dali zhoucheng tie dye

Across the lake to the fishing village on the east shore — about an hour's run from the old town — with the Nanzhao Folk Island offshore at CNY 50 and the Cangshan wall across the water to the west.

1. Shuanglang Fishing Village

The spring at the foot of Yunnong Peak owes its fame to the 1959 film Five Golden Flowers; end at Caicun dock a couple of kilometers east of the old town for lake light before the train.

1. dali butterfly spring
2. dali caicun dock