14 Days in Fushun

The memorial hall in Wanghua District keeps the belongings and diary of Lei Feng (1940-1962), who died on duty in Fushun on August 15, 1962; his tomb and monument stand in the grounds. Evening along the Hun River parks.

1. fushun leifeng memorial
2. fushun hunhe riverfront

The West Open Pit, worked from 1901, measures about 6.6 km long and 2.2 km wide; the mine museum lays out a century of coal, and a market street nearby sorts out lunch and the fortnight's train tickets.

1. fushun coal mine park
2. fushun city markets

Start early for the 100 km ride southeast to Xinbin Manchu Autonomous County. At Hetu Ala, Nurhaci proclaimed the Later Jin khanate in 1616; the nearby Yongling tombs joined the UNESCO Ming-Qing imperial tombs listing in 2004.

1. fushun hetuala city
2. fushun yongling tombs

A national forest park in Fushun County, southeast of the city, built around stair paths, birch woods and the three stacked granite boulders that give it its name. Carry water and a picnic; the round walk takes most of a day.

1. fushun sankuaishi forest

A slow day — riverside park loops, a bowl of the local mala-ban mix for lunch, and an early night before the excursion block starts.

1. fushun hunhe riverfront

The Dahuofang reservoir, finished in 1958, now covers the valley where the Battle of Sarhu was fought in 1619, when Nurhaci's banners defeated a larger Ming-led army. Lakeshore paths and viewing platforms make an easy half-day.

1. fushun saerhu scenic

The war criminals management centre, in use from 1950, held Japanese war criminals and the last Qing emperor Puyi until his release in 1959. The Pingdingshan memorial in Wanghua preserves the site of the massacre of September 16, 1932, when more than 3,000 villagers were killed. A quiet, factual day.

1. fushun war criminals centre
2. fushun pingdingshan memorial

About an hour away by intercity train. The Mukden Palace, begun in 1625, and Nurhaci's Fuling tomb were both added to the UNESCO list with the Ming-Qing imperial ensemble in 2004; back to Fushun by evening.

1. shenyang

An honest neighbour day, about 90 minutes by road southwest. The Benxi water cave is a boat ride through a flooded limestone passage with close to 3 km developed for visitors; pair it with the surrounding park and return by late afternoon.

1. benxi

The rafting run in Qingyuan Manchu Autonomous County, northeast of the city, operates from June to September; outside those months swap in a second Sankuaishi loop. Life jackets on, phone in a dry bag, and a hot pot dinner back in town.

1. fushun honghe drift

A Liao-dynasty brick pagoda crowns the hill above the Hun River, ringed by hillfort walls older still. Go in the morning light, linger over the river views, and keep the afternoon free.

1. fushun gaoershan park

A second market day for the bazaar streets, snacks and people-watching — a deliberate pause halfway through the fortnight.

1. fushun city markets

A final easy loop of the riverside parks and an unhurried return to the memorial grounds if day 1 felt rushed — snacks for the train, an early night.

1. fushun hunhe riverfront
2. fushun leifeng memorial

A market breakfast and a last riverside walk, then the intercity ride to Shenyang for onward trains.

1. fushun city markets