7 Days in Hainan: East Coast Down, Rails Back

The mid-1800s arcade quarter, tea and temple courtyards, the harbor clock tower; the province's front door deserves a whole unhurried day.

1. hainan haikou qilou old street

The Shishan craters of the Leiqiong geopark (UNESCO-listed field since 2006), 15 km south, then a boat through the Dongzhai mangrove channels — village fish ponds and tidal forests within half an hour of downtown.

1. hainan shishan volcano park
2. hainan dongzhai mangrove

Half an hour east by rail; the launch site first flew in June 2016, its pads watched from Longlou's beaches, with the Dongjiao coconut forest for shade and fresh coconuts.

1. hainan wenchang launch site
2. hainan wenchang coconut forest

South to Qionghai's Boao, home of the annual forum founded in 2001; the Yudai sand spit separates the Wanquan River from the sea by a walkable ribbon of sand.

1. hainan boao yudai beach

Riyue Bay's breaks have hosted international surfing events; the Xinglong garden has been growing coffee, cacao and spices since 1957 — try the estate cup.

1. hainan riyue bay
2. hainan xinglong botanical garden

Tanka families farm fish on floating rafts at Xincun port; a cableway of more than 2,100 m crosses to the macaque reserve of Nanwan island.

1. hainan xincun danjia rafts
2. hainan nanwan monkey island

One declared Sanya day — its own city guide covers the rest — with the 108 m seafront Guanyin statue at Nanshan as the marker; then the west HSR line, running north since 2015, returns you to Haikou in about two hours for the flight out.

1. hainan sanya nanshan