14 Days in Hohhot

The Tibetan-Buddhist Dazhao was founded in 1579, two years before the walled town itself; the 380-meter Saishang Old Street curls around its south side, good for an evening snack walk.

1. hohhot dazhao temple
2. hohhot saishang old street

The museum's Chagannoor dinosaur skeleton runs about 26 meters (usually closed Mondays); 9 km south, the 33-meter earthen mound of Zhaojun recalls the 33 BC marriage alliance.

1. hohhot inner mongolia museum
2. hohhot zhaojun museum

The Five-Pagoda Temple (built 1727-1732) carries a star chart engraved in Mongolian script on its rear screen wall; the Ming-era Xilituzhao and the princess mansion of around 1705 round out the day.

1. hohhot five pagoda temple
2. hohhot xilituzhao temple
3. hohhot princess mansion

A 25-km hop northeast puts you on the meadow under the Daqingshan ridge, the ground of the 6th-century Chile Song — riding, herder's lunch, back by dark.

1. hohhot chilechuan grassland

An honest labeling day — the camp lies about 90 km north in Damao Banner, administratively Baotou's, but it is the classic first grassland night from Hohhot; rides at dusk, a yurt bed.

1. baotou xilamuren grassland

A late start back to the city, an easy afternoon of the old street's copper and curio shops, riverside dinner and an early night.

1. hohhot saishang old street

About 70 km west in Tumed Left Banner, the roughly 30-sq-km lake draws herons over the reed beds; a village fish lunch and an unhurried shoreline loop.

1. hohhot hasuhai lake

An honest neighbor day — an hour or so west by rail to Baotou, then north to the Qing-era Wudang Lha monastery, one of Inner Mongolia's best-preserved temple complexes, with the city museum after.

1. baotou wudang lha monastery
2. baotou museum

About 40 minutes east by HSR to Wulanchabu, then up to the Huitengxile meadows at around 1,800 meters — wind turbines over alpine grassland, Mongolian for "the cold highland".

1. wulanchabu huitengxile grassland

North of the rail line, a field of Quaternary cinder cones and lava plains you can walk on; back to Hohhot by the evening train.

1. wulanchabu ulanhada volcanoes

The long road south, about 180 km into Qingshuihe County, where the Ming Great Wall runs down to meet the Yellow River; canyon guesthouse for the night.

1. hohhot laoniuwan

Morning light on the river bend, then back via Tuoketuo county's Shenquan riverfront on the Yellow River; city by evening.

1. hohhot laoniuwan
2. hohhot shenquan yellow river

The general's yamen, begun in 1737 as the Qing garrison seat, makes an easy morning; the old street and a market stock-up close the city.

1. hohhot general yamen
2. hohhot city markets

A market breakfast — shaomei and milk tea one last time — then the train from Hohhot station.

1. hohhot city markets