5 Days in Huainan

The 241-meter ridge carries the 383 AD Fei River battle, where the phrase "every bush and bird an enemy" was coined, and the palace of Prince Huainan, whose court compiled the 21-chapter Huainanzi — tofu, locals say by tradition, was born in these kitchens.

1. huainan bagong mountain
2. huainan huainanwang palace

The Song-era wall runs 7,147 meters around four gates and held back the 1991 flood; walk the rampart from the east gate and drop into the Yuan-era Confucius temple courtyards.

1. huainan shouzhou city wall
2. huainan shouxian confucius temple

The 2022 museum, first in the country named for Chu culture, displays the 1933 finds from the royal Li-sangudui tomb — the original 400-kilogram cast ding sits in Hefei — then the old-town lanes and well-water tofu.

1. huainan chu culture museum

Sun Shu'ao's reservoir, dug about 2,600 years ago as the Quebei and listed among the world irrigation-heritage sites in 2015, still spreads some 34 sq km of water south of the old wall.

1. huainan anfengtang

West past Bagongshan, Jiaogang's roughly 60,000 mu of reed and lotus water take a slow boat loop; lake fish for lunch, then the train home.

1. huainan jiaogang lake
2. huainan city markets