7 Days in Jilin — Rime & the Songhua

Beishan's temple courts draw their big fairs on the 18th and 28th days of the fourth lunar month; the Confucian temple, founded in 1736, sits near the river, and the embankment walk runs below.

1. jilin beishan park
2. jilin confucius temple
3. jilin songhua riverfront

The 35 km ride north ends in the farmhouses across the river from the island — 2 dawn chances double the odds, since rime needs still, frosty air. Dusk over the frozen channel is its own reward.

1. jilin wusong island

A second island dawn if the first was windless in the wrong way, then back to town for Longtan's 388-metre hill-fort, its Goguryeo-era walls and the rock-cut rain pool.

1. jilin longtan mountain

The southernmost of the city's 4 guardian hills — Zhuque, with Xuanwu, Qinglong and Baihu ringing the old town — at an easy pace — forest paths, a temple pavilion or two, and the city grid laid out below.

1. jilin zhuque mountain

The lake begins about 20 km southeast at the dam begun in 1937 — boat piers in summer, a lakeshore drive, and the outflow that feeds the rime downstream.

1. jilin songhua lake
2. jilin fengman dam

An honest neighbour-city label — Changchun, the provincial capital, about 40 minutes west by intercity rail; the forest lake of Jingyuetan gives a flat, easy loop.

1. changchun jingyuetan

A steaming market breakfast and a last riverside walk, then the train from Jilin station — Changchun onward connections are 40 minutes away.

1. jilin morning markets