northwest · Xinjiang (Xīnjiāng)
Xinjiang Travel Guide
Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region occupies one-sixth of China's total land area. It borders eight countries (Mongolia, Russia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India) and contains the Tianshan mountain range, the Taklamakan Desert, the Turpan Depression (the third-lowest point on Earth), and much of the ancient Silk Road. Culturally it is Central Asia as much as it is China — the dominant language in Kashgar is Uyghur (a Turkic language), the architecture is Islamic, and the bazaars sell carpets from Samarkand alongside tea from Yunnan. This is one of the most logistically complex regions to visit in China, but the payoff is enormous.
Last updated:
TL;DR
Xinjiang is a region, not just a province — 1.66 million km² (roughly the size of Iran or Alaska) of snow peaks, grasslands, deserts, and Silk Road cities where Uyghur, Kazakh, Kyrgyz, and Han Chinese cultures meet. Kashgar and Turpan are among the most atmospheric urban experiences in Asia, and the distances between them are genuinely enormous.
Quick facts
| Capital | Urumqi |
|---|---|
| Population | ~26 million |
| Area | ~1,664,900 km² |
| Best season | May–June and September–October (July–August is very hot in Turpan, 45°C+; winter is brutally cold except in the south where it is merely cold) |
| Famous for | Silk Road — Kashgar Sunday Bazaar has run for 2,000+ years, Tianshan Mountains — alpine lakes and glaciers, Kanas Lake — crystal-clear lake in the Altai Mountains, Turpan Grape Valley — the lowest point in China (-154 m below sea level), Uyghur culture — music, food, and architecture, The Taklamakan Desert — one of the world's largest sand deserts, Dried fruit — Xinjiang produces the best raisins, dates, and apricots in China |
| UNESCO sites | 2 sites |
Why visit Xinjiang
Kashgar's Sunday Bazaar is the one thing in Xinjiang you should rearrange your itinerary for. It has operated every Sunday for over 2,000 years — farmers still arrive on donkey carts, sheep are traded in a dusty livestock yard, and the dried fruit section alone is bigger than most supermarkets. Then there is the drive along the Karakoram Highway (KKH) from Kashgar to Tashkurgan — 300 km of the most spectacular road scenery in China, passing 7,500-meter peaks, the sand dunes of Karakul Lake, and the Tajik herding communities at 3,600 meters. Turpan is the other essential stop: the ancient Jiaohe city ruins (2,300 years old, carved out of a loess plateau), the Karez underground irrigation canals (a 2,000-year-old engineering system that turned desert into vineyard), and eating grapes under vine trellises in Grape Valley while the Flaming Mountains glow red-orange in the 45°C heat outside.
Key cities
Urumqi
Capital, Xinjiang Museum, gateway to Tianshan and Heavenly Lake
Kashgar
Ancient Silk Road city, Sunday Bazaar, Id Kah Mosque, 1,500 km from Urumqi
Turpan
Grape Valley, Flaming Mountains, ancient Karez irrigation system
Kanas
Pristine alpine lake in the Altai Mountains, near the Kazakhstan/Mongolia/Russia borders
UNESCO World Heritage sites in Xinjiang
- Xinjiang Tianshan (inscribed 2013)
- Silk Roads: the Routes Network of Chang'an-Tianshan Corridor (inscribed 2014)
Getting there & around
Getting there: Urumqi Diwopu Airport (URC) is the main international gateway — flights from Beijing (4h), Shanghai (5h), Xi'an (3.5h), and some Central Asian cities (Almaty, Bishkek, Tashkent). From Urumqi to Kashgar: flight 2h (¥600–1,200) or train 20–24h. From Urumqi to Turpan: HSR 1h (¥50). From Urumqi to Kanas: fly to Burqin Kanas Airport (KJI, 1.5h) then 1.5h by car to the lake (open June–October only due to snow). International train: Urumqi to Almaty (Kazakhstan) runs twice weekly, ~24h. Warning: travel restrictions can affect access to parts of Xinjiang — see FAQ #1 below. Always check the current situation before booking.
Getting around: Xinjiang is enormous. Kashgar to Urumqi is 1,500 km — farther than London to Moscow. Kanas Lake is 800 km north of Urumqi. Overland travel between major destinations takes days, not hours. The Karakoram Highway (Kashgar to Tashkurgan, 300 km) requires altitude preparation — Tashkurgan is at 3,600 m and the Khunjerab Pass (border with Pakistan) is at 4,693 m. Road checkpoints are common. For all travel in Xinjiang: carry your passport at all times — police checks are routine, especially on intercity roads and at hotel check-ins (which are more rigorous here than elsewhere in China). DiDi works in Urumqi. In Kashgar, use the local taxi app or flag taxis (¥5–10 within the city). For long-distance travel: flights between Urumqi and Kashgar are the practical choice — the train takes nearly a full day. Buses connect most cities but are slow and uncomfortable over these distances.
Suggested itineraries
5 days — Urumqi + Turpan (North Xinjiang Express)
Day 1: Urumqi — Xinjiang Regional Museum (famous for the 3,800-year-old Tarim mummies with European features) + Hongshan Park for city views. Day 2: Day trip to Heavenly Lake (天山天池 Tiānshān Tiānchí, 1.5h from Urumqi, alpine lake at 1,900 m). Day 3: HSR to Turpan (1h) — Jiaohe Ancient City ruins. Day 4: Turpan — Grape Valley, Karez system museum, Flaming Mountains at sunset. Day 5: Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves + Emin Minaret, return to Urumqi.
8 days — Kashgar + Karakoram Highway
Day 1: Fly Urumqi → Kashgar. Day 2: Id Kah Mosque (morning) + Kashgar Old City (wander the alleys, the old city is a living neighborhood) + Apak Khoja Mausoleum. Day 3: Sunday Bazaar (livestock market in the morning, main bazaar all day). Day 4: Drive the Karakoram Highway — stop at Opal Village, Karakul Lake (3,600 m, with Muztagh Ata — "Father of Ice Mountains" — reflected in it), arrive Tashkurgan. Day 5: Visit the Stone Fort (3,600 m, 1,300 years old) + Tajik villages, return to Kashgar (or continue to the Khunjerab Pass border — permits required). Day 6: Fly Kashgar → Urumqi. Days 7–8: Urumqi as a buffer for travel logistics.
14 days — Grand Xinjiang — North + South
Weeks 1: Urumqi + Turpan + Kanas Lake (fly to Burqin, spend 3 days at Kanas — the lake and surrounding taiga forest are stunning in late September when the birch trees turn gold). Week 2: Fly Urumqi → Kashgar, 4 days for the bazaar, old city, and Karakoram Highway. This route covers Xinjiang's essential geography: the Altai Mountains in the north, the Tianshan in the center, and the Pamirs in the south — each a completely different ecosystem and culture.
Local cuisine
Lamb Kebabs (Kǎowǎ)
Chunks of lamb grilled on skewers over charcoal with cumin and salt — bigger, juicier, and smokier than kebabs elsewhere in China
Big Plate Chicken (Dà pán jī)
A colossal dish of chicken braised with potatoes, peppers, and chili in a massive plate, served with hand-pulled belt noodles on the side
Pilaf (Zhuāfàn)
Rice cooked with lamb, carrots, raisins, and cumin — the defining Central Asian dish, eaten at celebrations
Naan (Náng)
Central Asian-style tandoor-baked bread with sesame, stamped with a decorative pattern, sold fresh from clay ovens throughout Xinjiang
Dried Fruit (Gānguǒ)
Xinjiang produces China's best raisins, dried apricots, figs, dates, and walnuts — the Kashgar dried fruit bazaar is legendary
Frequently asked questions
Can I travel to Xinjiang independently? Is it safe?
Yes, with important caveats. Xinjiang is open to foreign tourists and most areas are safe to visit. As a border region, expect routine travel-document checks: carry your passport at all times, and be prepared for ID checks at transport hubs and hotel registration, which is strictly enforced. Not all hotels accept foreigners, so book ahead at properties with foreigner registration licenses (international chains or larger Chinese hotels). Some remote border areas may be temporarily restricted — Kashgar's Old City, the Sunday Bazaar, and Turpan have been consistently accessible, but check with a Xinjiang-based travel agency for current conditions before your trip. I recommend booking through an agency like Xinjiang Silk Road Adventures or Xinjiang China Travel for the first visit — they handle the logistics and keep track of which areas are accessible. Independent travel is possible between the major cities (Urumqi, Turpan, Kashgar) but requires more patience than anywhere else in China.
Do I need a special permit for Xinjiang?
Not for most areas. Your China visa or visa-free entry covers Xinjiang. However, some border regions require additional permits: (1) The Karakoram Highway beyond Tashkurgan toward the Khunjerab Pass (Pakistan border) requires a border permit, arranged through a travel agency in Kashgar — allow 1–2 days for processing. (2) Kanas Lake area theoretically requires no permit but some access roads may have checkpoints. (3) The Taklamakan Desert crossing on Highway G217 may have checkpoints. (4) Areas near the borders with Afghanistan, Tajikistan, and Kyrgyzstan often have access restrictions for foreigners. These rules change — the most reliable current information comes from travel agencies based in Urumqi or Kashgar, not from online forums.
How big is Xinjiang really? And how long does it take to travel between cities?
Xinjiang is 1,664,900 km² — roughly the size of France, Germany, Spain, Italy, the UK, and Portugal combined. Specific travel times: Urumqi to Kashgar: 1,500 km — flight 2h, train 20–24h, driving 22–24h (you would not drive this in one go). Urumqi to Kanas: 800 km — flight 1.5h + 1.5h drive. Urumqi to Turpan: 190 km — HSR 1h. Kashgar to Tashkurgan (Karakoram Highway): 300 km — drive 5–6h due to mountain roads and checkpoints. Kashgar to Turpan: 1,500 km — flight via Urumqi (there is no direct flight), total transit ~5h. If your trip is shorter than 10 days, you can either do northern Xinjiang (Urumqi + Turpan + Kanas) OR southern Xinjiang (Kashgar + Karakoram Highway) — NOT both.
What is the Kashgar Sunday Bazaar like?
It is one of the greatest markets in the world. The bazaar covers multiple sites: the main covered market (fabrics, carpets, hats, knives, electronics), the dried fruit section (acres of raisins, dates, walnuts, figs — tasting is expected, bargaining is normal), and the livestock market outside the city (sheep, goats, cows, horses, donkeys — arrive by 9:00 AM, the action peaks 10:00–11:30 AM and winds down by 13:00. The livestock market is the most photogenic and culturally authentic part, though it has moved several times as the city expands — confirm the current location with your hotel or a local guide). The main bazaar is free to enter. The livestock market charges a small fee (¥5 as of June 2026). No English is spoken anywhere — learn Uyghur greetings (Ässalamu äläykum) and numbers or negotiate with gestures. Photography: ask permission, especially of older Uyghur men. Most people are happy to be photographed if you smile and show the camera first.
What is the Karakoram Highway drive like?
One of the world's great road journeys — 300 km from Kashgar to Tashkurgan, climbing from 1,300 m to 4,000+ m. The road follows the historic Silk Road route south toward what is now Pakistan. Highlights: the red sandstone cliffs of the Gez Canyon (盖孜峡谷), Karakul Lake (喀拉库勒湖 Kālākùlè Hú) at 3,600 m with the 7,546 m Muztagh Ata reflected on clear days, sand dunes inexplicably appearing at 3,500+ meters, and the final approach to Tashkurgan — a Tajik town at 3,600 m with a 1,300-year-old stone fortress. The road is paved and well-maintained. Altitude: the rapid ascent can cause symptoms — spend the night in Tashkurgan before going higher. Border permit: required for travel beyond Tashkurgan toward the Khunjerab Pass (4,693 m, Pakistan border, open May–November). Arrange through a Kashgar travel agency (¥200–300 for the permit + driver, as of June 2026). Warning: the road can close in winter (November–April) due to snow at the pass.
What are the Tarim mummies at the Xinjiang Museum?
The Xinjiang Regional Museum in Urumqi has one of the most extraordinary archaeological collections in China: naturally mummified bodies from the Tarim Basin dating back 3,800 years. The most famous is the 'Beauty of Xiaohe' (小河公主 Xiǎohé Gōngzhǔ) — a woman with European facial features, long auburn hair, and felt clothing, preserved by the extreme aridity of the Taklamakan Desert. Her presence (and others like her) suggests that the earliest inhabitants of the Tarim Basin were not East Asian but a now-vanished Bronze Age population with ties to the Eurasian steppe. The museum is free but requires a passport for entry. Allow 2 hours. The mummies are on the second floor. Photos are sometimes permitted, sometimes not — check the signs.
What is Turpan like in summer?
Hot. Turpan sits in the Turpan Depression at -154 m below sea level — the third-lowest point on Earth after the Dead Sea and Lake Assal. Summer temperatures regularly hit 45°C (113°F), and the Flaming Mountains (火焰山 Huǒyàn Shān) can reach 70°C+ surface temperature. The ancient city of Jiaohe (交河故城 Jiāohé Gùchéng) — 2,300 years old, carved from a plateau between two rivers — is one of the best-preserved ancient cities in the world, but visiting at midday in July is punishing. Go at 8:00 AM opening or after 18:00. The Grape Valley (葡萄沟 Pútáo Gōu) is a shaded oasis where you eat fresh grapes under trellises — it is the only comfortable outdoor activity after 10:00 AM. The Karez system (坎儿井 Kǎn'érjǐng) — a 5,000 km network of underground irrigation channels, some 2,000+ years old — is fascinating and mercifully below ground level where it is cool. Bring 3+ liters of water per person per day in summer.
What is Kanas Lake and when should I visit?
Kanas Lake (喀纳斯湖 Kānàsī Hú) is a 24 km-long alpine lake in the Altai Mountains of far northern Xinjiang, near the borders with Kazakhstan, Mongolia, and Russia. The water is a distinctive turquoise-blue from glacial minerals, surrounded by taiga forest (Siberian larch and birch). It is most famous for autumn: late September through early October, when the birch trees turn brilliant gold. This is also when it is most crowded — Chinese domestic tourists flock here for fall foliage. Entry: ¥230 (including shuttle bus) as of June 2026. The lake is only accessible June–October; the access road closes when snow arrives in late October. To get there: fly Urumqi → Burqin Kanas Airport (1.5h, seasonal flights) then 1.5h by car to the park entrance, then a park shuttle bus to the lake. The total journey from Urumqi is about 5 hours. You need at least 2 full days at Kanas to make the journey worth it — 3 days is better.
Can I cross from Xinjiang into Central Asian countries?
Yes — several overland border crossings exist, though they are subject to periodic closures and the logistics are nontrivial. Main options: (1) Urumqi to Almaty, Kazakhstan: direct train twice weekly (~24h, ¥500–800), or flight (1.5h). (2) Kashgar to Kyrgyzstan via the Irkeshtam Pass or Torugart Pass: by shared taxi or arranged vehicle, requires Kyrgyzstan visa in advance (e-visa available for most nationalities). The Kashgar to Osh (Kyrgyzstan) route is ~12 hours. (3) Khunjerab Pass to Pakistan: open to foreigners May–November, requires Pakistani visa + border permit from both sides, elevation 4,693 m — altitude is a serious concern. Passports and visas are checked extensively. These are adventurous border crossings, not casual tourist transfers — arrange through a specialist agency.
What is the food culture in Xinjiang? Is it halal?
Xinjiang food is Central Asian — lamb, beef, bread, rice, dairy. Pork is essentially absent outside of Han Chinese restaurants (which are clearly marked). The Uyghur cuisine is halal (清真 qīngzhēn), with dishes closely related to those of Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and Turkey. Must-try items: lamb kebabs (烤羊肉串 kǎo yángròu chuàn — the seasoning is just salt, cumin, and chili, and the meat is cut larger than in other parts of China); big plate chicken (大盘鸡 dà pán jī — order it with 'jiā miàn' 加面 to add noodles); polo/pilaf (抓饭 zhuāfàn — the rice is cooked in lamb fat with carrots and raisins); laghman (拉条子 lātiáozi — hand-pulled noodles with lamb and vegetable sauce); and samsa (烤包子 kǎo bāozi — baked pastry with lamb and onion filling, cooked in a tandoor). Dried fruit is sold everywhere and makes excellent travel snacks. A proper meal in a Kashgar restaurant: ¥30–60 per person. Street food (kebabs, naan, samsa): ¥5–15 each.