Xizhou Bai Ethnic Ancient Town喜洲白族古镇

Xizhou Ancient Town lies about 18 km north of Dali Old Town and is the largest and best-preserved Bai settlement in the region. Its history is long — the town was founded as early as the Nanzhao period and served as an important staging post on the Tea Horse Road. Sifang Street, the heart of town, is ringed by old buildings where Bai residents once traded and gathered; the Zhengyi Gate, its facade inscribed with the town's name, is the signature landmark.

Xizhou is above all famous for its beautifully preserved Bai architecture. The Yan Family Compound, begun in the Qing dynasty, is the crowning example — a textbook study of the 'three rooms and a screen wall, four courtyards and five skywells' layout. Its woodcarving is exquisite: carved doors and windows, painted eaves and inscribed screen walls all display the mastery of Bai craftsmen. The film Five Golden Flowers was set here, and statues of its heroes Jinhua and A'peng now draw photographers on Sifang Street.

The town is also a food-lover's stop, best known for Xizhou baba (also called posu baba), counted among the 'Eighteen Oddities of Yunnan'. Baked sweet or savory, it is flaky outside, soft within, layered and fragrant. The lanes hold many shops selling Bai tie-dye handicrafts, and silverwork, embroidery and straw weaving are worth a browse as well. On the 24th day of the sixth lunar month each year, the Bai Torch Festival brings grand celebrations to town.